It’s a good thing wetsuits were invented or none of us would have braved the waters of Portrush, Northern Ireland. At 54-degrees (Fahrenheit), it’s a world away from the tepid bath waters of the North Shore in Hawaii.
Even still, the swells are descent enough that young rippers at Troggs Surf School brave the frigid shoreline in an attempt to ace the sport. Try as I might, I was not one of them.
That’s me in the 3rd photo from the top: noodle arms all akimbo, tail feathers about to kiss the sea and a runaway board heading for the beach. Wipeout! So much for technique, balance and rhythm that Instructor/Manager Carl Russell repeated during the lesson.
It’s the pop-up that poses the biggest challenge. The pros make it look so easy but the ability to go from lying on the board to standing upright on it takes tremendous core strength and mental focus.
After one too many spills, I retired to the boneyard to watch instead. Frankly, an equally rewarding alternative.